Last weekend I finally got to trek up to LA to see what Gordon Ramsay's The Fat Cow at The Grove was all about. Housed in The Farm's old spot adjacent to the theater, this new burger joint/gastropub is warm and inviting but with an industrial edge.
Walk in and the old baker's counter is flipped to the right with a colorful display of giant French Macaroons, chunky Chocolate Cookies fresh from the oven, Sugar-dusted Donut Holes, and baristas to brew your hot Cup of Joe. I love the new brick wall on the left that runs the length of the restaurant. There's also a new bar up front, followed by a reclaimed communal table in the middle, and booth seating at the back. Funky light fixtures are strewn about with gold & red glowing orbs that hang like ornaments.
Sit down and napkins & silverware are served in a tabletop caddy, along with Chef Matthew's rather enticing menu. Branzino Ceviche, Lobster Mac & Cheese, Gordon's Shepherds Pie, Fish & Chips, Coppa Picante Ham & Fig Flatbread, Chocolate Salted Caramel Shake – I could go on, but I'm getting hungry and it's past my bed time.
The Grubdown:
- perfect presentation, fluffy fun branded bun, love the angular cut Pickle, juicy not greasy meat, but is missing that extra something for the price, Fat Cow Cheeseburger with Short Rib & Kobe Beef, Butter Lettuce, Tomato & Kennebec Fries $15
- luscious, creamy, greens give it a crisp earthy touch, a bit more salt than necessary, Roasted Beets & Fresh Burrata with punchy Pomegranate Seeds, Upland Cress, Crushed Pistachios, Olive Oil, Salt & Pepper $14
- ridiculously oversized, super creamy, too flakey, all i tasted was sugar, Chai French Macaroon $3
I only ordered 3 things from the menu, but overall was not impressed. Perhaps I'm too jaded by SoCal's new burger joint every minute, and was hoping for Gordon to add his own spin. Instead, he kept the flavors simple – which is great if you're a purist.
The Burger was juicy and the toppings were crisp, but I wanted some kind of special sauce, or even a Curry-flavored dip for the Fries. The Beets & Burrata dish was my favorite and I did NOT want to split with the hand model. Even so, I felt the Salt took away from its freshness.
Next time, I'll stick to Ramsay's British roots and go for the Shepherds Pie, Fish & Chips, and Sticky Toffee Pudding.
189 The Grove Drive, Los Angeles, CA 90036. 323-965-1020.
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